Campgrounds on the Larapinta Trail are not a side note — they are the structure that holds this entire 223-kilometre walk together. If you’re heading off into the West MacDonnell Ranges in the Northern Territory, where you pitch your tent each night, it can mean the difference between carrying a decent load of water, knowing exactly how far you have to push yourself and recovering in time for the next big climb.
I’ve spent my share of nights huddled in for warmth between those iconic Ghost Gums near Ellery Creek and watched the sun come up on the ridges above Redbank Gorge before setting off for a Mt Sonder summit attempt. The Larapinta Trail is a harsh place – no sympathy, no options. Camp planning is a must-do – not a nice to have – it’s a matter of survival.
Trail Basics Before Camping
The Larapinta Trail campgrounds are spaced out across the West MacDonnell Ranges to help trekkers make their way through one of the world’s most unforgiving deserts, where water and shade are front and centre.
Out here in the centre of Australia, a bad choice can turn a minor blip into a VERY long day. And a poorly planned campsite can soon have you running dry halfway between Jay Creek and Standley Chasm – that’s not a story you want to be telling later.
The Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife Service reckons the Larapinta Trail is one of the top multi-day hikes in Australia, with more than 30,000 walkers returning each year to tackle it in peak season.
Key Campgrounds Along The Route
The Larapinta runs in 12 sections – each with its own camps set at sensible walking intervals. And the distances between them? They’re not random at all. They’re carefully planned around water availability, how exposed the terrain is, and road access – by the Stuart Highway and West MacDonnell access roads.
| Campground | Trail Section | Notable Features | Distance From Previous |
|---|---|---|---|
| Telegraph Station | Section 1 | Trailhead, water, facilities | Start |
| Simpsons Gap | Section 2 | Rock wallabies habitat | ~23 km |
| Jay Creek | Section 3 | Remote bush camp | ~13 km |
| Standley Chasm | Section 4 | Café, water refill | ~13 km |
| Birthday Waterhole | Section 5 | Seasonal waterhole | ~17 km |
| Hugh Gorge | Section 6 | Gorge camping | ~16 km |
| Ellery Creek Big Hole | Section 7 | Permanent swimming waterhole | ~31 km |
| Serpentine Gorge | Section 8 | Shelter and water tanks | ~14 km |
| Ormiston Gorge | Section 9 | Visitor centre and campground | ~28 km |
| Redbank Gorge | Section 12 | Access to Mt Sonder | ~15 km |
Distances vary depending on route choices, sidewalks, and detours.
Section-Specific Camping Insights
Each section of the Larapinta Trail has its own unique feel to it – a rhythm, terrain challenges and a character all its own.
Telegraph Station Campground – The Very Start Of The Journey
At the very beginning of every Larapinta adventure, you’ll find Telegraph Station, perched just outside Alice Springs near the Stuart Highway.
Sitting beneath the majestic red ridges of the Heavitree Range, this historic site marks the official trailhead from the east. Most hikers spend a bit of time here fiddling about with their packs, studying their maps and trying to pretend that their food bags aren’t quite as ridiculously heavy as they feel.
Telegraph Station’s got all the basics: drinking water, toilets, picnic shelters and some helpful info boards explaining the trail.
If you get there early, accommodation like Alice Lodge Backpackers nearby is a great place to lay your head while you prep for the trek ahead.
As you leave Telegraph Station behind, the trail heads off west towards Simpsons Gap, and pretty quickly the landscape transforms into rocky ridges and desert valleys.
Simpsons Gap And Jay Creek – The Early Trail Camps
Right from the start, hikers get a taste of the terrain of the Western MacDonnell Ranges.
Simpsons Gap is probably one of the most photographed spots on the trail, and it’s easy to see why – the gorge walls shoot up out of the waterhole, and at dusk you’re likely to spot some rock wallabies hopping about on the rocks.
A bit further west, Jay Creek marks the end of Section 3. The camp is nestled beside a dry creek bed surrounded by some low hills and desert scrub.
Be prepared for pretty simple conditions here: sandy ground, a shelter, and a compost toilet – water reliability is not always guaranteed either, so keep an eye on the levels and the weather.
The evenings in this area are icy cold desert nights, too – temperatures drop like a stone as soon as the sun disappears behind the ranges.
Hugh Gorge And Ellery Creek Big Hole
Standley Chasm marks the end of Section 4, which just so happens to have one of the few cafes on the entire Larapinta Trail – so after a few hours of dusty walking, a cup of coffee here can feel like a taste of civilisation.
The site itself is managed by the Arrernte Traditional Owners, in partnership with the Central Land Council, and any visitor fees go straight towards helping with the cultural management of the area.
Beyond Standley Chasm, the trail continues through open country towards Birthday Waterhole – the main camp for Section 5. Ghost gums line the creek bed here, and in the late afternoon light, their pale trunks glow like a beacon in the distance.
The camp itself has a small shelter, a water tank, and a toilet – and as for wildlife, this is the kind of place where you might catch a glimpse of a dingo wandering past, or watch a Barn Owl glide silently over the camp just after sunset.
Serpentine Gorge And Ormiston Gorge Camps
As you approach Hugh Gorge, things start to get a lot tougher and a lot more interesting for that matter.
You’re walking along a trail that goes from rugged to downright adventurous, with rocky gullies like the one at Rocky Gully, dry creek beds near Hugh Junction to cross, and scrambling up bouldery terrain. And on a wet day, Hugh Gorge Waterhole can be tricky – requiring some careful rock-hopping to get across.
Out the other side is Ellery Creek Big Hole, a fantastic permanent waterhole surrounded by cliffs and desert hills, and some particularly useful trail markers to keep an eye out for, including Ellery Creek North, Ellery Creek South, and Ghost Gum Flat.
And to top it all off is one of the best campgrounds on the whole trail – offering shade, swimming and reliable water.
Redbank Gorge And Mount Sonder Sunrise
The Larapinta Trail itself comes to an end at Redbank Gorge deep in the heart of the West MacDonnell Ranges.
But let’s face it, if you don’t climb Mt Sonder, you’re not really finishing the trail at all – it’s one of the most famous desert peaks in all of Central Australia.
The summit track starts right near the campground and is a good-ish 8 km return, so most people get up and head off just before 3 or 4 am to make it to the top before the sun comes up.
When you get there, the view is truly breathtaking – endless ridgelines stretching across the West MacDonnell Ranges, the distant path of the Finke River, and rugged peaks as far as the eye can see.
It’s one of those moments when you just can’t help but be in awe of how big Australia really is.
Water Planning And Carry Strategy
The state of your water is what really defines your experience on the Larapinta Trail.
NT Parks does provide water tanks at many official camps, but even then:
- You’re not always guaranteed to get a full tank
- The pump might fail on you
- And wildlife can be a real nuisance when it comes to accessing water
I figure you’ll need 4–6 litres of water per person per day in the cooler months. And that’s only if it stays cool – if the temperature starts rising, you’ll need a lot more.
And don’t forget – water is bloody heavy. One litre of water weighs a kilogram, which adds up quickly on those rocky ridges.
So, when you’re planning your day, make sure you leave some breathing room for the incline – heat management really hits much harder than you’d think.
Seasonal Timing: When To Camp
If you can, try to plan your campouts for the following months:
- May to August (that’s your best bet for stable, relatively cool weather)
And give the following months a miss:
- December to February (it’s bloody hot and often hits 40°C+)
- After any heavy rain, the gorges are prone to flash flooding
The thing is – this region doesn’t follow the classic wet/dry tropical pattern you see in other parts of the country, but the summer heat is pretty severe.
And then there’s the small chance that bushfires could close off certain areas. So, always make sure to check the NT Parks alerts before heading out.
Multi-Day Hike Gear Checklist
Here’s what I reckon you’ll need to get away safely – learned the hard way:
- A -0°C rated sleeping bag to keep you warm at night
- A decent 3–4 season tent
- Some solid pegs and a small hammer
- A water container capacity of at least 4–6 litres
- Electrolytes to keep you hydrated
- A GPS or real map
- A basic first aid kit
- Snake bite bandage
- A PLB (Personal Locator Beacon)
Don’t bother bringing any portable solar lighting – it won’t be available at the standard bush camps. And no USB charging ports either – you’re limited to whatever power you can scrounge up.
Wildlife And Environmental Realities
You might be surprised at just how much wildlife you can see in the West MacDonnell Ranges – it’s not exactly what you’d expect from such a dry environment.
Around Simpsons Gap and Ormiston Gorge, you’ll see rock wallabies hopping about, and wedge-tailed eagles soaring overhead. And yes, dingos can and do wander through camps – usually on the lookout for an easy meal.
And then there are the plants – they’re incredibly resilient in this harsh environment. Species like Edelweiss Everlasting, Sida corrugata and Swainsona flavicarinata all pop up after seasonal rains.
The desert might look empty at first, but after a few days of walking, you’ll start to see the life that’s really there.
Fuel, Access, And Shuttle Logistics
If you’re going for section hikes, transport logistics become a major headache.
Alice Springs is your main base, but don’t expect the same level of convenience once you head out into the bush. Servos are still there, but once you hit the 4WD tracks, the distances just seem to go on and on.
Those road trains that rumble along the highways? Forget about them overtaking you – they just swallow you up.
If you’re planning a car shuffle, best to factor in:
- At least 2 – 3 hours driving between trailheads
- The state of those gravel roads
- Tyre pressure management
Lower the pressures for corrugations – just be ready for some free chiropractic advice along the way.
Common Mistakes I’ve Made (So You Don’t)
- Underestimating terrain difficulty around Hugh Gorge
- Starting Mt Sonder with the wrong timing
- Not checking water tank levels
- Not packing enough tent pegs
- Misjudging a spur trail detour
Final Thoughts From The Red Centre
Campgrounds along the Larapinta Trail are simple affairs, scattered across one of Australia’s most breathtaking desert landscapes. No luxury, no frills – and don’t even think about showing up with sloppy planning.
What you get is red rock, cold nights, starry skies and a silence so complete you might start wondering why you ever bothered with your phone.
If you’re mapping out sections and unsure about campsite spacing – whether you’re going it alone or getting some support from operators like Australia Tours – I’m always up for a chat over a cold beer in the red dust.
FAQ
Are Water Tanks At All Campgrounds Guaranteed?
Can I Get Phone Coverage Along The Trail?
Is Mt Sonder Accessible From Standard Campgrounds?
Yeah, it is. Redbank Gorge and nearby Sonder Camp are your staging points for the summit hike.
