The Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park just explodes out of the ground in western Victoria — sandstone ridges, eucalypt forest and long valleys stretching out in every direction between them. And then there’s Mount William (Duwul) at 1,167 metres, but you only get a sense of the size of this place when you consider it’s not just about the height. Halls Gap sits smack in the middle, right next to the Wonderland Range, while Mt Stapylton’s country stretches out to the north, the Victoria Range lies to the west, and Mt Abrupt looms over Dunkeld to the south.
What stuck with me, though,h was the way the landscape just shifts on you as you walk. From dry, rocky outcrops and open forest to lakes, deep valleys and exposed ridgelines, all within the space of a couple of hours. If you can, take at least two or even three days to explore this place. The thing is, Gariwerd just rewards you for taking your time and not rushing around.
Among Sandstone And Forest
The Wonderland Range brings you right up close to that iconic sandstone. The tracks wind their way through the weathered rock, then climb up to The Pinnacle. Now you can tackle this in two ways, depending on your fitness level and how much time you have. An easy one is to start from the Sundial Carpark;d it’s 4.2 km return and should take you about 1.5 to 2 hours. If you start from Halls Gap, though, it’s a bit of a slog, roughly 5 hours return, so only for the fit and experienced.
For a taste of the scale without the climb, there are a couple of lookouts to try – Boroka or Reeds. Boroka gives you a stunning view out over Halls Gap and Lake Bellfield while Reeds looks out over the wide plains of the Victoria Valley, with the Victoria and Serra ranges stretching out to the sides.
Down in the valleys, you have Lake Wartook, Lake Bellfield and Moora Moora Reservoir all nestled between the ridges. The MacKenzie River cuts its way right through the middle of the park, and it’s what feeds the best waterfall country you’ll find here.
MacKenzie Falls, Broken Falls, and Silverband Falls are probably the biggest draws, but check that the road is open before you go. As of last September, the MacKenzie Falls area was closed due to construction, and it’s still shut till the end of 2026. If you’re looking for an alternative, the Fish Falls walk from Zumsteins is a good option – about 1.5 to 2 hours return and a Grade 3 walk.
Following The Ranges
The three parts of Gariwerd ask for different days.
North, around Mt Stapylton, Hollow Mountain and Gar / Mount Difficult, the country is rougher and more exposed. Sandstone dominates. Come here for walking and rock climbing, not a string of quick roadside stops.
Central Gariwerd packs more into a smaller area. Halls Gap puts the Wonderland Range, The Pinnacle, Boroka Lookout, Reeds Lookout and Lake Bellfield within practical reach, which is why it remains the strongest choice for a first visit.
South of Mount William, the ranges stretch towards Dunkeld. Mt Abrupt, Mount Sturgeon and the Major Mitchell Plateau rise above broader, more open country. This deserves its own day. Mount William is about 30 minutes by road from Halls Gap and an hour from Dunkeld; distances that look modest on a map soon eat into walking time.
| Area | Best reason to go | Useful base | Allow |
|---|---|---|---|
| North | Rugged sandstone and walking | Northern/western side | Half–full day |
| Central | Major sights and a first visit | Halls Gap | 1–2 days |
| South | Mountain walks and open country | Dunkeld | Full day |
Country And Culture
Long before these ranges became a national park, they were — and remain — Aboriginal Country. Gariwerd is an Aboriginal cultural landscape connected to Traditional Owners, including Djab Wurrung and other Traditional Owner groups across the Greater Gariwerd Landscape.
The record survives in Aboriginal rock art shelters, scarred trees, stone artefacts and quarries. A Parks Victoria heritage guide documents approximately 60 rock-art shelters and more than 4,000 motifs, representing more than 80% of Victoria’s known rock-art sites within that dataset.
Numbers give some sense of the concentration, but not the meaning. The paintings at Manja, Billimina, Gulgurn Manja and Ngamadjidj belong to a living cultural landscape, not a collection of archaeological stops beside walking tracks.
In Halls Gap, Brambuk – The National Park and Cultural Centre adds essential context. The original Brambuk Cultural Centre opened in 1989 to acknowledge, protect and share the cultures of the Jadawadjali and Djab Wurrung Peoples.
Walking The High Country
Kilometres can be deceptive here. A short rocky climb may ask considerably more than a longer formed track.
At 1,167 metres, Mount William (Duwul) is the highest point in The Grampians. The final approach is approximately 3.5 km return along a steep sealed road. Higher up, tall eucalypts shrink away into low sub-alpine vegetation; in winter, snow is possible. From the summit, the view runs through 360 degrees across the ranges and plains.
Then there is the Grampians Peaks Trail: more than 160 km through the ranges from the north, via Halls Gap, towards Dunkeld. Walking the complete route takes 13 days.
Even if you never attempt the full trail, its line explains Gariwerd remarkably well. North, centre and south stop looking like separate clusters of attractions and read as one mountain chain.
Fire And Regrowth
Eucalypt forest, wetter gullies, heath and exposed high country support markedly different communities. Spring wildflowers brighten the lower slopes; kangaroos, wallabies and emus are among the more conspicuous animals, with wedge-tailed eagles and Gang-gang cockatoos among the birdlife.
Fire has altered what visitors see. The 2024–25 bushfires affected about 135,000 hectares, close to 80% of Grampians National Park. Burnt trunks now stand beside fresh growth, while habitat work, pest control and infrastructure repairs continue. Closures are part of that recovery, so an old walking itinerary can quickly become obsolete.
Sleeping Close To The Mountains
Halls Gap is the base I would choose for a first visit. It keeps the Central Grampians close, so mornings can begin on a walking track rather than on the road. Dunkeld works better for Mt Abrupt and Mount Sturgeon, while Lake Wartook offers a quieter western side.
For a night among the trees, Boreang Campground lies about 16 km south of Halls Gap, with 23 unpowered sites and simple facilities. Bring drinking water.
As at September 2026, Parks Victoria charges A$17.80 per night in peak season, A$16.90 in shoulder season, and A$16.00 in off-peak season. Two peak-season nights come to A$35.60. Prices include GST and can change.
Give It Time
The Grampians lie approximately 260 km, or three hours, from Melbourne and 460 km, or five hours, from Adelaide. Once here, a car is the practical link between widely separated trailheads, lakes and ranges.
Spring brings wildflowers. Cooler months are generally kinder for longer walks; winter can bring rain, cold ridges, and occasional snow around Mount William. Summer brings longer daylight, heat, and a greater fire risk.
As at September 2026, seasonal road closures run from 9 June to 29 October 2026, with further restrictions possible during bushfire recovery, severe weather and infrastructure works. Check Parks Victoria immediately before leaving.
The Landscape That Stays With You
A day gives you the headline views. Stay longer, and the spaces between them start to matter.
For me, that is the reason to visit Gariwerd. The Pinnacle is spectacular, but it was the broader landscape that lingered: sandstone above the trees, long views into Victoria Valley, Aboriginal cultural places and fresh growth pushing through burnt country.
Give The Grampians enough time,e and they stop being a sequence of pins on a map. The ranges take over.
