The Grampians, traditionally known as Gariwerd, just leap out from the open plains of western Victoria — suddenly and dramatically, their great sandstone ridges fold into forested valleys, and rocky peaks and hidden waterfalls are tucked away deep in the ranges. At the heart of all this lies Grampians National Park, with Halls Gap, a tiny town that somehow squeezes itself into a narrow valley where mountains & bushland seem to be right on top of it.
Give yourself two to three days, and the landscape starts to make some sense – high lookouts & rugged walking trails, ancient Aboriginal cultural sites, kangaroos grazing below the ranges & historic wine country spreading out beyond the mountains, all waiting to be discovered.
Nature, Landscapes & Aboriginal Culture
The Grampians are essentially giant sandstone ridges; the Mt Difficult Range, Serra Range, and Victoria Range rise high above broad valleys such as Victoria Valley. We’re talking over 167,000 hectares of protected land within Grampians National Park, where you can see kangaroos, emus and native birds roaming around Lake Wartook, Lake Bellfield & the MacKenzie River.
This is also a place of huge cultural significance to the Gariwerd Aboriginal people. The Gariwerd Aboriginal cultural landscape holds the majority of Victoria’s known Aboriginal rock art sites, carefully preserved within protected rock shelters such as the famous Bunjil’s Shelter. In Halls Gap, the Brambuk – The National Park and Cultural Centre is a great place to get a feel for the cultural importance of Gariwerd.
The seasons really change the mood of the place, winter brings fuller waterfalls, spring brings wildflowers, while summer brings a greater risk of bushfires. Always a good idea to check the Parks Victoria website before heading out to see if there are any trail, road, or campground closures you need to be aware of.
Walking, Waterfalls & Mountain Views
The best way to get a feel for the Grampians is definitely to get out and walk – from easy valley trails to exposed mountain routes, there’s something for everyone. From Wonderland Carpark, the walk to The Pinnacle takes you up through weathered sandstone & along the narrow walls of Silent Street before suddenly opening up high above Halls Gap & Lake Bellfield. For something a bit shorter, the Venus Pools walk stays down low in the valley.
At 1,167 metres, Mount William (Mt William) is the highest point in the ranges – MacKenzie Falls is another real highlight, plunging down into a sandstone gorge, with Broken Falls just nearby & the smaller Silverband Falls tucked away in the central ranges. Reeds Lookout offers great views west across Victoria Valley without requiring too much of a climb.
If you’re feeling really adventurous, then the Grampians Peaks Trail is a 164-kilometre behemoth that you can tackle over 13 days, although you can always just do bits of it if you prefer. The sandstone cliffs are also a popular spot for rock climbing, although in some areas access is restricted to protect the Aboriginal cultural heritage & the environment.
Towns, Villages & Regional Experiences
Halls Gap sits deep in the heart of the central ranges and is the most sensible place to base yourself for a first visit. You’ve got walking trails, accommodation and all the usual places to eat right on your doorstep, while The Pinnacle, Wonderland and Lake Bellfield are close enough that you don’t need to spend hours driving to get to them.
Down south, beneath Mount Abrupt, Dunkeld gives the enclosed valley a miss and instead offers you a taste of the open countryside and a strong food scene led by the fantastic Royal Mail Hotel. Over on the other side of the ranges, Pomonal sits right between the bush and the vineyards, while Great Western, Stawell and Ararat help connect the mountains to Victoria’s west and its wine and farming country.
When choosing a base to stay in, remember the mountains. Some ridges may only look a short distance apart on the map, but trust me, they can end up adding hours to your drive, so it’s worth choosing somewhere that’s close to the bit of the park you want to explore.
Food, Wine & Scenic Touring
Beyond the foothills of the eastern side of the Grampians lies some really historic territory — the Grampians wine region, where vines have been growing since all the way back in the 1860s, and Shiraz has basically become the defining wine of the area. Great Western is the old heart of the wine region, and you’ve got a slew of well-established producers like Best’s Great Western, Seppelt Winery and Grampians Estate all clustered there.
Halls Gap has the largest collection of casual places to eat and drink near the park, while the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld is way at the other end of the scale, destination dining-wise.
The drive from the mountains and forests to the wine region is a real treat – it shifts from mountain passes and forests to broad valleys, farmland, and vineyards. If you head north, you’ll eventually find yourself looking out over the Wimmera and Little Desert; head west, and the road will carry on through to South Australia.
When it comes to planning your trip, two nights is the bare minimum; three or four will give you a chance to really explore the ranges without ending up backtracking, take longer walks, and have enough time to head out and explore the wine country beyond the park.
